Clarifying Butter

In honor of simplicity I chose to make my own Ghee this week. I’ve often bought ghee from the store before and even though I have a middling tolerance for dairy products I seem to have no problem digesting butter or ghee.  The smell of ghee on the frying pan is simply delightful and I’ve recently enjoyed using rendered fats in my cooking, saving chicken fat from the last roast that we did inspired a round of excellent chopped liver (onions cooking in chicken fat illicit an awe inspiring drool worthy smell), and saving lard from a recent pork roast made some of the most beautifully textured oven roast potatoes.  One of these days I want to do some lard and flour baking.  That is what they would use when I was a kid to make Dan Tarts (chinese style puff pastry with egg custard), the smell of warm lard is a sure fire flashback to my youth, I am quite sure that pork fat is one of the cornerstones of traditional Cantonese cooking. There’s been much written recently on the undue vilification of saturated animal fats. All I can really add to that conversation is that I was extremely relieved to hear that fat free milk is bad for you.  I have always been drawn to fats, seared fish sends happy shivers down my spine, avocados make me smile and along with strawberries they were a very rare childhood treat (berries and avocados were very hard to find in Hong Kong in the eighties). As long as I can remember I had a deep love affair with fat.  I’m the weirdo that will cut a slab of fat off my steak and eat it first before diving into the lean meat and one time age ten when I got in trouble for fighting with my mom I went to the store and I bought her a gorgeous rib eye steak to express my deep remorse and future good will.  As far as minimally processed foods, fats and rendered fats are perfect…  butter is made of the following emulsion:  the two dissimilar substances are butterfat (roughly 80%) and water (roughly 17%) along with about 3% milk solids. The emulsion breaks on being heated and the components separate. Clarified butter is nothing more than pure butterfat. Fats will keep you full for longer, they help to balance moods, provide essential fatty acids for cell development and body processes and we cannot generate these fatty acids ourselves, they must be received from an external source.

So now that I have prayed for a sufficient amount of time at the temple of tummy I’ll post that recipe 🙂 Clarified butter is so simple to make and a superior tool to cook with as it resists high heat sauteeing and has a mellow and comforting flavour.

Ingredients

1lb Unsalted Butter

Method:

Melt butter on medium heat until it comes to a boil.  Skim off the first foam that forms on the butter’s surface.  Reduce heat and continue to let butter simmer.  You will see the liquids separate from the butterfat as the butter boils.  Its quite pretty – roiling and rolling globules of golden emulsified liquid. After the butter has bubbled away for about seven to ten minutes a second foam will form.  Take butter off heat and let it cool for fifteen minutes.  Strain through a fine mesh strainer with cheese cloth.  Make sure to stop before straining liquids at the bottom of the pan. Note, you will see those three distinct parts in separation: milk solids you skim off the top, butterfat in the middle and water settles to the bottom.

Store in a sealed glass jar.  You can keep it at room temperature for up to a month.

 

 

Art meets Process

sheep-pig

Andrew Plotsky’s film on pork butchery. Caution: Some images may be graphic for some viewers.

“His favorite cut of a pig? The trotter, or the foot. “If you have a trotter on a plate, you should feel blessed and not say ‘Ew,'” he says. “They’re kind of everything a chicken wing dreams of being.”

I simply had to share this film.  I found the following article this morning on NPR.  This work is inspired and inspiring.  Connect, create and feed the future.  Thank you Andrew Plotsky.

NPR: How One Former Vegan Learned to Embrace Butchering

 

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Bloody Maria meets Dear Leader

 

Holiday hangover? Cure it quick with Pete Gugni’s morning reviver.

We started serving brunch about four months ago, which gave me a great excuse to experiment with breakfast cocktails. When I paired tomato juice with kimchi, a spicy Korean side dish that mostly consists of fermented Napa cabbage, the flavors just harmonized. This is kind of like a cross between a Bloody Mary, which is made with vodka, and a Bloody Maria, which uses tequila. But instead of tequila, I use a barrel-aged version of its smokier cousin, mezcal. The finishing touch is a little bit of Edmund Fitzgerald Porter, a beer from Great Lakes Brewing Company that has a strong coffee flavor. So even if you start your day with a cocktail, you can say you’ve had your morning coffee too. Pete Gugni is the chief mixologist at The Bedford <http://www.bedfordchicago.com>  in Chicago. 

Ingredients:

1½ ounces vodka

½ ounce Don Amado reposado mezcal

5 ounces kimchi tomato juice*

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon hot sauce

1 dash pepper

1 dash celery salt

1 ounce Edmund Fitzgerald Porter

celery stalk

lemon wedge

Directions:

1. Combine ingredients in an ice-filled mixing glass. Shake, then strain into a 14-ounce glass over ice.

2. Stir in the beer, then garnish with a celery stalk and lemon wedge.

*In a blender, purée 3 parts tomato juice with 1 part kimchi.